Selasa, 04 Desember 2018

Metode Pemasangan Liner Pool Kolam Renang

Installation instructions for reinforced PVC swimming pool liners

This information sheet describes the installation process of a reinforced 1.5mm PVC liner designed specifically for swimming pools. This provides a basic notice for welding the On-Site ProFlex liner. It is highly recommended to have an experienced and well-reputed professional show you how to measure, weld, trouble-shoot for first time installations.
Proflex liners consist of two PVC membranes that are laminated onto a woven polyester reinforced mesh. The 1.5mm PVC sheets are cut and welded on site. When installed, reinforced PVC material gives the swimming pool an extremely strong, flexible and attractive waterproof surface for the pool walls and floor.

Preparations before liner installation:
• Provide suitable conditions, including temporary shade over the pool and/or wet-weather protection, so work can be carried out unrestricted.

• Supply and erect mandatory safety barricades, signs, lights, and equipment to protect workmen and the public.

• All pool surfaces need to be reasonably smooth without oil or tar-based material present and free of sharp projections, voids or large cracks. Fill holes and cracks to a smooth finish.

• If the walls are made of galvanized steel, and there is red/brown rust present, it is recommended that the rust be cleaned and painted with a zinc based primer.

• Remove and vacuum away any dirt from inside the pool.

• In the event of installing the liner in an existing pool, it is very important to sanitize the walls and floor to avert the growth of mould or bacteria that can harm the liner material.

• Check that all fittings, seals, flanges, screws etc. are present and in good condition.

• Provide a suitable container for the disposal of scrap material in close proximity to pool area.

• Have a licensed electrician examine (and repair if necessary), the electrical system, including grounding of the pool, underwater lights and any other relevant electrical devices.

• Make sure that easy access to electricity is available.

• Provide a water supply for cleaning, rinsing, and filling the pool.

• Clean the area around the pool.

• If the pool needs to be drained, closely monitor the water table around the pool to minimize hydrostatic damage to pool shell.

Delivery, storage and handling
The PVC membrane should be delivered on a palette to the site packaged to prevent damage. The rolls of material should not be stacked on their end or stored in any manner that could cause damage or deformity.

Materials
• Flexible reinforced PVC liner: The liner is to be installed as detailed in the drawings. The material is usally (must not be less than 1.5 mm thick), as per the technical data sheet provided by Haogenplast.

• Flexible anti-slip PVC reinforced sheeting: This material is identical in chemical and physical properties to the reinforced PVC liner, and has an embossed surface suitable for high traffic areas.

• Geo-textile fleece underlay: If desired, the interior surface of the swimming pool can be covered with a polyester fleece underlay (separator) weighing at least 300 gram per square meter. The fleece underlay must be resistant to freeze, thaw, moisture, soil-chemical abrasion and must be free of foreign matter that could potentially damage the liner and should be flame resistant due to the high-temperature of the hot-air welding process.
Installation procedure

• Fasten the rigid PVC linerlock strip around the perimeter of the pool just under the coping stone with sunken head non-corrosive screws and anchors or aluminum rivets, at 10 cm centers.

• If using underlay, attach the fleece to the pool wall and floor with glue in order to secure the fleece. Ensure that there are no creases and the seams butt together and do not overlap.

• If fixing the wall liner to the coated steel, install PVC coated steel or shaped galvanized strips as necessary to form angles, edges, corners, or other transitions.

• There are 2 methods for hanging the wall material:

• Weld a 9 mm strip of PVC to the top back-side of the sheet as a bead to insert in the linerlock.

• The flexible reinforced PVC liner is heat-welded to a rigid PVC perimeter strip or to the PVC-coated steel strips.

• Seams are to be with a single overlap only. Multiple overlaps are not acceptable as they are susceptible to leaks.

• All material sections are to be applied in full roll widths and lengths except where pool conditions dictate otherwise.

• Align the sheets in such a way as to minimize visible seams.

• Completely replace any damaged areas with new material so that there will be no patches.

• There are 2 methods for welding all seams and joints:

1. Cold weld applying THF between the 5cm overlay using a sand-bag weight to press the sheets together. (Care must be taken to ensure that THF is not spilt on to exposed areas of the PVC sheets.)

2. Hot air welds with a minimum 5 cm overlap.

• Welding should progress at a rate of about 80 cm per minute.

• The best temperature for obtaining a perfect weld is between 450 and 500°C. The working temperature may vary according to the weather (i.e. humidity, temperature, wind, etc).

• Do not heat-weld when the temperature is below 10°C.

• Edges must be absolutely clean and dry in order to prevent steam bubbles caused by the welding.

• Prod the seams, when cooled, with a hand-held lance to ensure that the weld is complete. Apply an adequate pressure to detect possible weak points or insufficient adhesion of the two layers.

• If necessary, re-weld the faulty seams with the hot-air welder.

• Finish off the (cold or hot weld) seam with a bead of liquid PVC compound along the edge of the seam.

• In areas such as shallow water or steps, it is recommended to weld a layer of anti-slip PVC reinforced sheeting onto the new floor or step surface.

• Affix to the liner any special markings, patterns, lines, etc. as indicated on the drawings or as specified.

• In order to ensure a watertight seal between components within the pool structure such as inlets, outlets, drains, underwater lights, skimmers, etc., it is necessary to securely join the liner to these components with corresponding rigid PVC or ABS flanges, seals and stain-less steel screws.

Cleaning
After installation is complete, sweep clean (or vacuum) all surfaces. Remove scraps, debris, and other material and dispose of in a suitable manner.
Quality control

• Limit access to the project site to minimize the possibility of damage to the liner. Materials and equipment must not be dragged across the liner surface or allowed to slide down the slopes.

• Workers must wear socks or soft soled shoes, and check for any sharp objects stuck in the sole.

• After installation, check again the integrity of all welded seams and component seals.

• Upon completion of installation and checking the seams, the pool should be filled with water to normal operating level and the filtration system operated for a period of 6 hours without evidence of water loss, beyond acceptable evaporation.

• Immediately after installing the liner, protect the pool from damage, contamination, or spillage caused by other workers within the vicinity. It is highly recommended to fill the pool immediately with water. If for some reason this cannot be done, cover the new liner well to protect it from sunlight or other damage.

ALBIAN POOL
Spesialis Kolam Renang Minimalis, Roof Top, Olimpik Waterpark, Jacuzzi

#Albian Pool
#AlbianPoolStudio
#AlbianPoolShop

www.albianpool.com
www.albianpoolshop.wordpress.com
www.albianpool.wordpress.com
www.albianpools.blogspot.co.id

Alamat :
Jl. Kp.grogol Sebrang No. 3, Rt. 001 Rw.06 Kel. Limo Kec. Cinere, Depok 16514 Jawa Barat - Indonesia.
Email : albianpools@gmail.com

Telp. 021.77972751
Mobile/wa : 081291565358 / 0811942428

Sabtu, 01 Desember 2018

ALBIAN POOL : Konsultan, Kontraktor Kolam Renang Olimpik dan Roof TOP

ALBIAN POOL
Spesialis Kolam Renang Minimalis, Roof Top, Olimpik Waterpark, Jacuzzi

#Albian Pool
#AlbianPoolStudio
#AlbianPoolShop

www.albianpool.com
www.albianpoolshop.wordpress.com
www.albianpool.wordpress.com
www.albianpools.blogspot.co.id

Alamat :
Jl. Kp.grogol Sebrang No. 3, Rt. 001 Rw.06 Kel. Limo Kec. Cinere, Depok 16514 Jawa Barat - Indonesia.
Email : albianpools@gmail.com

Telp. 021.77972751
Mobile/wa : 081291565358 / 0811942428

Jumat, 30 November 2018

Konsultan, Kontraktor Kolam Renang Olimpik dan Waterpark

PT. Albian Persada Teknik

Memiliki jaringan partner dan mitra khusus spesialisasi Kolam Renang Olimpik standard nasional dan Waterpark dan jenis kolam renang komersial lainnya.

Disamping Pembuatan Kolam Renang Type Private Residensial Minimalis dan Guest House, Villa resort.

Dengan support team lapangan yang ahli dan dukungan dari Produk produk spesialis kolam renang berkapasitas besar.

Supported by : Astral Pool, Hayward, Waterco, Pentair, Diamond.

Supply and Install Pompa Filter Aksesories

dengan Tim Spesialis mulai tahap rancang bangun, estimasi hingga pasang struktural, finishing, plumbing dan elektrikal. serta supoort pengantung sesuai kebutuhannya masing2 baik diatas lantai maupun dibawah dak.

Albian Group siap membantu perencanaan dan Pembuatan Kolam Renang type Olimpik, Roof Top Hotel, Apartemen Residensial Pool; Hot, Cold, Normal dan Water Park.

Kami Menerima Jasa :
- Desain Perencanaan dan Perhitungan Kapasitas Unit Pompa dan Aksesories
- Upah Struktur dan Finishing
- Upah Instalasi Plumbing dan Elektrikal
- Jasa Konsultan dan Supervisi

Telp : 021.77972751

Hotline : 0811942428 / wa/:081291565358

Email : albianpools@gmail.com
www.albianpool.com
www.albianpool.wordpress.com
www.albianpoolshop.wordpress.com

Korosi Pada pipa besi plumbing kolam renang

Korosi

adalah peristiwa perusakan logam oleh karena terjadinya reaksi kimia antara logam dengan zat-zat di lingkungannya membentuk senyawa yang tak dikehendaki.

Contoh peristiwa korosi antara lain karat pada besi, pudarnya warna mengkilap pada perak, dan munculnya warna kehijauan pada tembaga. Reaksi kimia yang terjadi termasuk proses elektrokimia di mana terjadi reaksi oksidasi logam membentuk senyawa-senyawa oksida logam ataupun sulfida logam.

Korosi pada Besi (Perkaratan)

Proses korosi pada besi dapat dibagi menjadi dua reaksi redoks terpisah, antara lain:

Proses hilangnya besi

Bagian besi yang hilang umumnya adalah bagian besi yang mengalami kontak dengan air. Bagian ini disebut daerah anode, sebagaimana reaksi oksidasi besi terjadi:

$Fe(s) \longrightarrow Fe^{2+}(aq) + 2e^-$
.
$E_{red}^{\circ} = -0,44 V$

Ketika atom-atom Fe kehilangan elektron, terbentuklah cekungan di bagian hilangnya besi tersebut. Selanjutnya, elektron-elektron yang terlepas tersebut akan mengalir ke bagian dengan konsentrasi oksigen tinggi yang umumnya terletak di tepi tetesan air tempat terbentuknya cekungan. Bagian ini disebut daerah katode, di mana elektron yang terlepas dari atom besi mereduksi O2:

$O_2 (g) + 2H_2O (l) + 4e^- \longrightarrow 4 OH^- (aq)$
.
$E_{red}^{\circ} = +0,40 V$

atau

$O_2 (g) + 4H^+ (aq) + 4e^- \longrightarrow 2H_2O (l)$
.
$E_{red}^{\circ} = +1,23 V$

Pada umumnya, reaksi reduksi yang terjadi adalah reaksi reduksi oksigen dengan H+, sebagaimana medium terjadinya korosi cenderung bersifat asam dan reaksi reduksi dalam suasana asam cenderung lebih spontan, sebagaimana potensial reduksinya lebih besar (+1,23 V). Ion H+ berasal dari asam H2CO3 yang terbentuk dari reaksi pelarutan karbon dioksida dalam uap air di udara.

Jadi, keseluruhan reaksi hilangnya besi, tanpa reaksi pembentukan karat, yaitu:

$2Fe(s) + O_2 (g) + 4H^+ (aq) \longrightarrow 2Fe^{2+} (aq) + 2H2O (l)$
.
$E_{red}^{\circ} = +1,67 V$

Proses pembentukan karat

Karat besi, Fe2O3∙nH2O yang merupakan senyawa padatan yang berwarna coklat kemerahan, terbentuk pada reaksi redoks yang berbeda dengan reaksi sebelumnya. Ion-ion Fe2+ yang terbentuk pada daerah anode terdispersi dalam air dan bereaksi dengan O2membentuk Fe3+ dalam karat. Keseluruhan reaksi pada proses ini adalah:

$2Fe^(2+) (aq) + \frac{1}{2} O_2 (g) + (2+n)H_2O (l) (aq) \longrightarrow Fe_2O_3 \cdot nH2O (s) + 4H^+ (aq)$

Secara keseluruhan, jika persamaan reaksi hilangnya besi dengan reaksi pembentukan karat dijumlahkan maka diperoleh:

$2Fe(s) + frac{3}{2} O_2 (g) + nH2O (l) \longrightarrow Fe_2O3 \cdot nH2O (s)$

Reaksi korosi pada besi
(Sumber: Brown, Theodore L. et al. 2015. Chemistry: The Central Science (13th edition).

Faktor Penyebab Korosi Pada Besi (Faktor-faktor yang Mempengaruhi)

1. Konsentrasi H2O dan O2

Dalam kondisi kelembaban yang lebih tinggi, besi akan lebih cepat berkarat. Selain itu, dalam air yang kadar oksigen terlarutnya lebih tinggi, perkaratan juga akan lebih cepat. Hal ini sebagaimana air dan oksigen masing-masing berperan sebagai medium terjadinya korosi dan agen pengoksidasi besi.

2. pH

Pada suasana yang lebih asam, pH < 7, reaksi korosi besi akan lebih cepat, sebagaimana reaksi reduksi oksigen dalam suasana asam lebih spontan yang ditandai dengan potensial reduksinya lebih besar dibanding dalam suasana netral ataupun basa.

3. Keberadaan elektrolit

Keberadaan elektrolit seperti garam NaCl pada medium korosi akan mempercepat terjadinya korosi, sebagaimana ion-ion elektrolit membantu menghantarkan elektron-elektron bebas yang terlepas dari reaksi oksidasi di daerah anode kepada reaksi reduksi pada daerah katode.

4. Suhu

Semakin tinggi suhu, semakin cepat korosi terjadi. Hal ini sebagaimana laju reaksi kimia meningkat seiring bertambahnya suhu.

5. Galvanic coupling

Bila besi terhubung atau menempel pada logam lain yang kurang reaktif (tidak mudah teroksidasi, potensial reduksi lebih positif), maka akan timbul beda potensial yang menyebabkan terjadinya aliran elektron dari besi (anode) ke logam kurang reaktif (katode). Hal ini menyebabkan besi akan lebih cepat mengalami korosi dibandingkan tanpa keberadaan logam kurang reaktif. Efek ini disebut juga dengan efek galvanic coupling.

Cara Mencegah Korosi pada Besi

1. Menggunakan lapisan pelindung untuk mencegah kontak langsung dengan H2O dan O2

Contoh lapisan pelindung yang dapat digunakan, antara lain lapisan cat, lapisan oli dan gemuk, lapisan plastik, dan pelapisan logam lain, seperti Sn, Zn, dan Cr. Pada pelapisan cat dan pelapisan plastik, bila cat tergores/terkelupas atau plastik terkelupas, korosi akan mulai terjadi bagian yang terpapar dengan udara tersebut. Pada pelapisan dengan oli dan gemuk, perlu dilakukan pengolesan secara berkala.

Pada pelapisan timah (tin plating), timah lebih tahan korosi (kurang reaktif) dibanding besi, di mana potensial reduksi besi lebih negatif (E° Fe = −0,44 V; E° Sn = −0,14 V). Namun, sebagaimana efek galvanic coupling, apabila lapisan timah tergores, maka timah justru akan mempercepat korosi pada besi. Pelapisan timah umumnya dilakukan pada kaleng-kaleng kemasan. Pelapisan timah umumnya digunakan pada kaleng-kaleng kemasan dengan tujuan agar kaleng-kaleng bekas cepat rusak dan hancur.

Pada pelapisan zink (galvanisasi), zink lebih reaktif dibanding besi (E° Fe = −0,44 V; E° Sn = −0,76 V). Berbeda dengan timah, bila lapisannnya tidak utuh, zink masih dapat melindungi besi dari korosi. Hal ini terjadi sebagaimana terbentuknya sel elektrokimia dengan zink sebagai anode yang teroksidasi dan besi sebagai katode. Mekanisme perlindungan ini disebut perlindungan katode. Pelapisan zink umumnya digunakan pada besi penopang konstruksi dan pipa besi.

Pada pelapisan kromium (chrome plating), kromium lebih reaktif dibanding besi (E° Fe = −0,44 V; E° Cr = −0,74 V). Sama seperti zink, mekanisme perlindungan katode juga terjadi pada pelapisan kromium meskipun ada lapisan kromium yang rusak. Pelapisan kromium umumnya digunakan pada ketel, setang, dan bemper mobil.

2. Menggunakan perlindungan katode

a. Menggunakan logam lain yang lebih reaktif sebagai anode korban

Logam lain yang lebih reaktif dari besi, seperti Zn, Cr, Al, dan Mg, akan berfungsi sebagai anode korban yang menyuplai elektron yang digunakan untuk mereduksi oksigen pada katode besi. Metode perlindungan katode ini dapat dilakukan dengan pelapisan seperti pada galvanisasi dan chrome plating ataupun dengan hanya menghubungkan logam anode korban dengan besi. Sebagai contoh, pipa besi yang ditanam di bawah tanah dan badan kapal laut umumnya dihubungkan dengan batang magnesium. Magnesium akan berfungsi sebagai anode korban dan besi menjadi katode yang terlindungi dari korosi (E° Fe = −0,44 V; E° Cr = −2,37 V). Batang magnesium tersebut harus diganti secara berkala.

Perlindungan pipa besi dengan anode korban Mg
(Sumber: Silberberg, Martin S. & Amateis, Patricia. 2015. Chemistry: The Molecular Nature of Matter and Change (7th edition). New York: McGraw-Hill Education)

b. Menyuplai listrik dari luar

Untuk melindungi tangki besi bawah tanah juga dapat digunakan anode inert seperti grafit yang dihubungkan dengan sumber listrik. Elektron dari sumber listrik akan mengalir ke anode, lalu oksidasi yang terjadi di anode akan melepas elektron yang akan mengalir menuju katode tangki besi melalui elektrolit tanah.

c. timah

Timah adalah satu-satunya logam yang kurang reaktif dibanding besi, sehingga tidak dapat memberikan perlindungan katode, namun mengaibatkan terjadinya efek galvanic coupling.

Korosi – Referensi

Brown, Theodore L. et al. 2015. Chemistry: The Central Science (13th edition). New Jersey: Pearson Education, Inc.
Johari, J.M.C. & Rachmawati, M. 2008. Kimia SMA dan MA untuk Kelas XII Jilid 3. Jakarta: Esis
McMurry, John E., Fay, Robert C., & Robinson, Jill K. 2016. Chemistry (7th edition). New Jersey: Pearson Education, Inc.
Petrucci, Ralph H. et al. 2017. General Chemistry: Principles and Modern Applications (11th edition). Toronto: Pearson Canada Inc.
Purba, Michael. 2007. Kimia 3B untuk SMA Kelas XII. Jakarta: Erlangga
Silberberg, Martin S. & Amateis, Patricia. 2015. Chemistry: The Molecular Nature of Matter and Change (7th edition). New York: McGraw-Hill Education

Artikel: Korosi – Pengertian, Faktor Penyebab, Cara Mencegah, Proses Terjadinya
Kontributor: Nirwan Susianto, S.Si.
Alumni Kimia FMIPA

Source Artikel : studio belajar

#Albian Pool
#AlbianPoolStudio
#AlbianPoolShop

www.albianpool.com
www.albianpoolshop.wordpress.com
www.albianpool.wordpress.com
www.albianpools.blogspot.co.id

Alamat :
Jl. Kp.grogol Sebrang No. 3, Rt. 001 Rw.06 Kel. Limo Kec. Cinere, Depok 16514 Jawa Barat - Indonesia.
Email : albianpools@gmail.com

Telp. 021.779 72 751
Mobile/wa : 0812 9156 5358 / 0811 94 24 28

Kamis, 22 November 2018

Cara Treatment Air Kolam Renang Pertama Kali

01. 1 minggu setelah Isi

CARA PERAWATAN KOLAM RENANG SAAT PERTAMA KALI PENGISIAN AWAL, DARI SUMBER MATA AIR TANAH TERDEKAT ATAU AIR POMPA RUMAH. UNTUK KOLAM RENANG 5 M X 10 M KEDALAMAN RATA – RATA 1,25 M. KOLAM RENANG OVER FLOW DENGAN VOLUME AIR 65 M3

02. Obat Treatment

Langkah pertama, terlebih dahulu siapkan obat-obatan kolam renang sebagai berikut:
a. 2 kg kaporit 60%
b. 2 kg soda ash
c. 2 kg pac
d. 1/2 kg terusi
e. 7 kg tawas
f. 1 kg chlorin tablet

03. Posisi Handle Filter ke arag FILTER

Langkah kedua, pengoperasian mesin kolam renang.
a. Matikan mesin kolam
b. Handle filter posisi recerculate
c. Pipa vaccum/Skimmer on
d. Pipa maindrain off
f. Pipa balancintank off (*untuk sistem semi over flow atau
over flow)
g. Pipa pembuangan atau waste off

04. Kaporit 60% Di cairkan

Langkah yang ketiga, masukkan 2 kg kaporit ke dalam lubang vaccum atau skimmer kolam renang dengan cara campur air terlebih dahulu terlihat seperti gambar.

05. Trussi / Anti lumut

Langkah yang keempat, masukkan 2 kg soda ash dan 1/2 kg trusi ke dalam lubang vaccum atau skimmer kolam renang dengan cara campur air terlebih dahulu terlihat seperti gambar.

06. PAC / Pengendapan

Langkah yang kelima, masukkan 2 kg pac dan 1/2 kg trusi ke dalam lubang vaccum atau skimmer kolam renang dengan cara campur air terlebih dahulu terlihat seperti gambar.

07. Tawas ( Dicairkan )

Langkah yang keenam, masukkan 7 kg tawas dan ke dalam lubang vaccum atau skimmer kolam renang dengan cara campur air terlebih dahulu terlihat seperti gambar.

treatment-kolam-renang_7

Setelah proses diatas maka selanjutnya:
a. Matikan mesin kolam
b. Handle filter posisi filter
c. Pipa vaccum off
d. Pipa maindrain on
e. Pipa balancintank on (*untuk sistem semi over flow atau
over flow)
f. Pipa pembuangan atau waste off
g. Nyalakan mesin sampai dengan 8 sampai 12 jam

*sumber : majalah swimming idea thn 2018*

Jumat, 16 November 2018

How to Vacuum a Pool to Waste how to vacuum to wasteu

How to Vacuum a Pool to Waste how to vacuum to waste Hello - just back from a long August vacation, and while away I received an email from a customer about their threadbare winter pool cover. One drawback to the old mesh safety cover is that it lets in a lot of light and silt. Vacuuming in the spring is a large chore, especially since the DE filter was attached to a push-pull type of valve, with no option to 'vacuum to waste'. Vacuuming to Waste essentially means that the pump pushes the water into the filter valve, which diverts it straight into the waste line, bypassing the filter sand, grids or cartridges. There are different ways to vacuum a pool to waste, depending on which type of filter valve you have - a multiport valve or a push-pull (also called slide) valve, or even no filter valve at all. HOW TO VACUUM TO WASTE A POOL: Fill the pool before beginning, and run the hose while vacuuming. Shut off pump and switch the multiport valve to the Drain to Waste Position. Vacuum as fast as possible, the water level can drop fast. Stop vacuuming when the skimmer begins to suck air, allow the pool to refill. Move the backwash hose frequently to avoid erosion and oversaturation. Vacuuming to Waste: Why and When Vacuuming to waste is helpful when there is a lot of debris in the pool, especially silty dirt, that clogs up the filter quickly, requiring you to stop vacuuming to backwash or clean the filter. When one vacuums to waste, the water never enters the filter tank, but is jettisoned out the waste port, and exits through the backwash hose or pipe. Vacuuming to Waste: How and What Multiport Valve: waste port on multiport valve For multiport valves, those that have 6 settings, set the valve handle into the "Waste" or "Drain" position. Roll out the backwash hose if you have one, and begin vacuuming as fast as you can manage. Remember, the water level is dropping! Push-Pull Valve: Push pull valves use a piston with two disks, and have only two settings, Filter or Backwash. In the down position, the water is directed through the tank on Filter mode, returning to the pool after it exits the filter tank. In the up position, the water enters the waste line as it exits the filter. (Pac-Fab push-pull valves have a reverse operation, up for Filter, down for Backwash). Since there is no "Drain" setting on a push pull valve, it would seem that there is no way to vacuum to waste on a filter with a slide valve - or is there? For DE filters, you can remove the grid assembly and reassemble the filter tank tightly, being sure that the clamp is properly positioned and very tight. Open the air bleeder and set the push pull in the backwash position. Adjust your skimmer and main drain valves for maximum suction through the skimmer, and voila! you can vacuum the pool to waste. If the push pull plunger falls down, into the filter position, use vice-grips or a small wrench to hold it in place. how to vacuum to waste with a push pull valve For Sand filters using a push pull valve, you can't remove all of the sand. It would seem that there is no way to vacuum to waste a sand filter - or is there? There is a method, but it can be dangerous, so read carefully. Remove the plunger from the slide valve housing or body by loosening the large union nut, small bolts or nuts on the top, under the handle. Clean off any lubricant inside the valve body. Then insert a rubber expansion plug, usually a #11 or #12, down into the valve body. Tighten it fully with pliers, and don't stand over the plug, which would be dangerous if it blew out under pressure. Make sure the backwash hose is not kinked and open the filter air bleeder before starting pump. A straight sided pressure testing plug will hold stronger than a tapered winterizing expansion plug. No Valve: Cartridge filters don't have a backwash valve at all, because you don't backwash them, you remove them and spray them off with a garden hose. It would seem that there is no way to vacuum to waste with a cartridge filter - or is there? Option #1 is to remove the filter lid, and remove the cartridge, and replace the lid securely, fully tightening the clamp. Remove the drain plug and thread in a 1.5" hose adapter and backwash hose with a clamp. Run out the backwash hose to a storm drain or an area that won't erode or oversaturate. Don't flood the neighbors! Option #2 is to install a 3-way valve in the pipe between the pump and filter. Pac-Fab 3-way valves are under $30, and the only other materials needed are a bit of pipe and some PVC glue and primer. Use a hacksaw to cut out about a 5 in. section of PVC pipe between the pump and filter, leaving 2-3" of clear pipe on both sides to connect the new valve. You may need help to pull apart the pump and filter slightly as you glue the new valve into place. Reset the valve lid to allow the water to flow straight through the valve for normal filtration, or take a hard 90° turn and go out port #3. Glue a short piece of pipe to the valve, and clamp a length of backwash hose to the pipe. Turn the valve whenever you want to vacuum to waste on a cartridge pool filter, or when you need to lowe

Treatment Air Kolam Renanh Pertama Kali